Boa Constrictor Temperature Requirements

Reptiles can’t be kept in the same conditions as a dog or cat because they are cold-blooded, which means that they rely on their environment to regulate their body temperature. Reptiles are incredible because their bodies can tolerate a wide range of temperatures — in fact, experiencing changes in temperature over the course of a day and depending on location is very healthy for a reptile.

But that’s what life is like for reptiles, and since your boa isn’t in the wild, it’s your job to supply a stable heat source that they can use as needed.

Boa constrictors have been proven to do well within this temperature gradient:

Basking air temp: 86-90°F (30-32°C)
Cool end: 75-80°F (24-26°C)

Overall your boa constrictor enclosure should have different areas that range from 75°F to 90°F for a complete thermal gradient.

Heating devices should be turned off at night to cause a nightly drop in temperature, which evidence suggests is the best practice for the long-term health of the animal. According to climate data from boa constrictor habitat, boas are likely to be able to easily endure night drops as low as 68°F/20°C. If your room temps get lower than this at night, you will need a thermostat-regulated, lightless heat source to supplement.

Special note: It is speculated that B. c. constrictor particularly benefits from seasonal fluctuations in temperature, even if a keeper does not intend to breed. Experts recommend a 14-hour day during summer and then a drop to 75-78°F (24-26°C) air temperature during winter, with an 8 hour day.

TABLE OF CONTENTS:

Temperature Data
Tools for Creating the Perfect Temperature Gradient
How to Measure Enclosure Temperature
Do boas need heat at night?

Temperature Data

Wild boa constrictors have been recorded active at temperatures as low as 62°F (17°C) and up to 104°F (40°C) between the hours of 7am and 7pm, although most of the data is clustered between 90°F (32°C) and 66°F (19°C). This temperature range contradicts what most keepers assert as “the best,” but proves that with correct husbandry, these animals are hardier than previously thought. Do you think that nature always stays at the perfect temperature? Of course not, and these animals are adapted to deal with the fluctuations of their region without getting sick. The key is to create a full temperature gradient so your snake can warm up and cool down as desired. The hottest areas will be closest to the heat source, and the coolest areas will be farthest from the heat source.

Chiaraviglio, Margarita, et al. “Intrapopulation variation in life history traits of Boa constrictor occidentalis in Argentina.” Amphibia-Reptilia 24.1 (2003): 65-74.
Waller, Tomas, et al. “Ecological correlates and patterns in the distribution of Neotropical boines (Serpentes: Boidae): a preliminary assessment.” Herpetological Natural History 3 (1995): 1.
McGinnis, Samuel M., and Robert G. Moore. “Thermoregulation in the boa constrictor Boa constrictor.” Herpetologica 25.1 (1969): 38-45.

Tools for creating the perfect boa constrictor temperature gradient:

The best way to create a temperature gradient for your boa will be to place the heat source on one side of the enclosure. This will make sure that there is an area of cooler temperatures that your boa can retreat to on the opposite side of its habitat. Don’t be alarmed if your snake spends most of its time on the cool or mid-range area; boas typically only use the hot spot for digesting after a meal.

Heat lamps are still a controversial heat source for snakes, but according to expert Roman Muryn’s research, they are one of the most natural ways to create the right temperature gradient in your boa’s enclosure.

BEST: Reptile Systems Gold Infrared Unit

If you really want to invest in high-quality heating for your boa, get a Reptile Systems Infrared Gold Unit (or more, depending on the size of your snake). This is a GREAT heat lamp due to its sky-high Infrared-A output, but it’s different from what you may be used to. Don’t be alarmed by the deep red color — it’s not the same as a typical “red bulb”. That color you’re seeing is the result of the high IR-A output, which is right next to red on the visual light spectrum. Normal red heat bulbs are red just because of the color of the glass.

Charts for approximate basking temperature at varying distances are available on the manufacturer’s website here.

GOOD: Incandescent/Halogen Flood Heat Lamp

If you are using an enclosure with a mesh top, I recommend using a dual dome-style heat lamp fixture with a ceramic sockets. (The Zoo Med Combo Deep Dome Dual Lamp Fixture is my favorite for larger reptiles.) That way the mesh creates a barrier between the hot bulb and your snake, and you can create a larger basking area for healthier, more effective basking.

If the bulb(s) must be installed inside the enclosure, you will need bulb cages like this to prevent burns. However, I strongly recommend using an enclosure with a mesh top so the lamps can be installed outside of the enclosure.

My preferred heat bulbs:

Halogen bulbs (best mounted over mesh):

Incandescent spot bulbs (best inside the enclosure):

You will need a cluster of AT LEAST 2 HEAT BULBS to create a large enough basking area to heat your boa’s coiled body evenly.

Be sure to buy white or clear bulbs rather than red, blue, black, or whatever other color they’re offering. Colored bulbs create an unnaturally tinted environment and may negatively affect your pet’s circadian rhythm.

What wattage? This is a common question with no solid answer, sorry! What wattage bulb you will need depends on room temperature, enclosure height, and other factors. What works for one person won’t always work for another. Be prepared to experiment with two or even three different wattages until you’re able to get the basking temps.

Deep Heat Projector (DHP)

The Arcadia Deep Heat Projector and other similar products are essentially a the better, more modern version of the classic ceramic heat emitter. Heat projectors provide lightless, downward-focused Infrared-B and -C radiation that doesn’t have to be housed in a specialized cage fixture.

DHPs aren’t suitable for use as a primary heat source, but they can be good for boosting ambient (air) temperatures in smaller enclosures.

Use the DHP by installing the bulb inside a ceramic-socket dome heat lamp in place of a conventional heat bulb. Plug into a proportional (dimming) thermostat or rheostat to regulate the heat output.

Radiant Heat Panel (RHP)

Heat panels act like heat lamps without the bulb. They’re not suitable for use as a primary heat source because they only produce Infrared-C, but they can be great for maintaining good ambient temps. Unlike heat pads, these are installed on the ceiling of the enclosure for natural heat, which radiates down to create a zone of warmth on one side of the enclosure. Make sure to connect your radiant heat panel to a proportional thermostat (not thermometer — and yes, there’s a difference) to maximize the RHP’s lifespan as well as make sure it doesn’t accidentally get too hot.

Vivarium Electronics and Sweeter Heater are both good brands for RHPs.

Do not use heat tape or a heat pad as your primary heat source!

Heat tape is a heating element in the shape of a long cord that can be distributed however you want under/around the enclosure. Handy, right? It used to be very popular with snake enthusiasts (and still is with breeders) because of this convenient feature. Heat pads and mats are installed on the bottom of an enclosure to warm the substrate above. These are also very popular with snake enthusiasts. However, they tend to struggle when used with wood enclosures or a thick substrate layer, and fail to affect air temperatures.

Both heat tape and heat pads must be used in conjunction with a thermostat to prevent them from getting too hot, and without this tool it is impossible to control your boa’s temperature gradient.

Both products are used with the same assumption that snakes need “belly heat” in order to digest their food properly. However, the truth is that the whole concept of belly heat is bogus! In nature, warmth comes from above (the sun), not from below (the ground). In fact, when reptiles get too hot they will retreat underground to cool off. Using overhead heat sources like heat lamps mimics the effects of the sun and how boas evolved to receive warmth. To recreate this effect in your enclosure, you can place a piece of light-colored flagstone, concrete, or even wood underneath the heat source to create the perfect basking surface.

How to measure enclosure temperature

As you may have noticed, surface temperature needs to be warmer than air temperature. That is because basking surfaces like rocks and branches tend to warm up faster than the air does. Measure surface temperatures with an infrared temperature gun and use a digital thermometer for air temperatures. It may seem redundant at first, but trust me, you’ll get much more accurate readings this way. Using only one device or the other will give you inaccurate readings that can put your boa’s health at risk.

Do boa constrictors need heat at night?

Unlikely, unless your home gets particularly cold. According to a general survey of nighttime temperatures in boa constrictor habitat, night temperatures can (and should) drop to as low as 68°F (20°C) at night with no ill effect. In fact, providing a nightly drop in temperature is actually better for your boa’s health!

However, if your room temperature gets lower than 68°F at night, it is recommended to provide a lightless heat source like a ceramic heat emitter (CHE) or radiant heat panel (RHP) attached to a thermostat to keep things between at the recommended 68-75°F.

Special note: Experienced keepers report that B. c. orophias and B. c. nebulosa may be less cold-tolerant than other boas. Using a lightless nighttime heat source to keep temperatures around 80°F (26°C) night is highly recommended for success with these subspecies.

When in doubt, check average nighttime temperatures during the active season in your subspecies’/locality’s habitat with TimeAndDate.com’s Past Weather tool.

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